This article was first published in Tararua Tramper, May 2025 pp.8-9, with a map and photo.
Point 830 to Papatahi
Friday 21 March 2025
I had wanted to do this trip for ages. We did the North to South version in 2022 – led by Janette Roberts. There were about eight on that trip. The weather was kind. There was an overnight stay in Waerenga hut to shorten the day. It was a great trip.
This time I want to do the trip in reverse, south to north. And because I work evenings, I prefer to skip the overnight at Waerenga and make it a one-day trip. Many of the normal victims for a trip like this are otherwise occupied – so it is just three of us. Catarina and Andrew Fisher, potential new club members (also HVTC), and myself. The weather forecast is poor on Wednesday so I postpone the trip to start on Friday.
We leave Hutt Park car park at 6 a.m. And are walking from the Catchpool by 6.35. With torches. Into the Ōrongorongo River and upstream to the Mt Matthews turn-off. The river is up a bit due to recent rain but nothing too difficult. The weather is clear with some cloud hanging around the range top. On the true right of Matthews Stream we find the orange marker that leads us into the bush and onto the spur to point 830. There is a marked trap line, seemingly well-trodden as the route is easy to follow. Two-thirds of the way up the ridge we pop out of the bush for a look. We are on the edge of the most massive of slips. From the Ōrongorongo River at 160 metres to the range top at 800 metres. And from this spur to the next major spur up valley. All slip and stoney ridges and gullies.These are such crumbly impermanent hills.
As we approach the main range we move into the mist, the light rain, the very wet bush. Although it is fine in Wellington, a southeast wind is bringing a damp cloud cap to the range. Coats on.
Now northish. I estimate more than two but less than three hours to Papatahi. Long range views are now minimal. Even though the country is ROUGH the route is well marked and easy to follow. We are hardly even uncertain. And such a variety of travel. Grassland. Open ground. Rocky ridge. Cloud forest. Scrub. Onga Onga – a couple of attacks. Lawyer. It seems to change every few minutes. With intermittent cloudy views of ridges and peaks ahead or behind. My left Achilles starts to hurt. I have probably gone too fast trying to keep up with these fit young ones. The final pull up to Papatahi has me feeling stonkered.
We have a most welcome lunch break on the open grassy high point. It has taken most of three hours from point 830. The descent from here back to the Ōrongorongo River is of poor repute. I don’t remember it being ‘that bad’. Down we go gently at first across this high, almost flat, plateau. Then plummet down the steep spur. Working always to stay on track. Not a good place to lose the trail or markers. Yes, there are steep loose sections, but nothing too tricky. We expect another 100 metres of descent in steep bush but are surprised by a sharp left turn and we are in the open river bed of a side stream. It is now hot and sunny. Sunhats on. And the cloud has cleared from the tops.
At the main river a 4-wheel-drive taxi to take us home would be nice. Right takes you up stream to the closed water catchment area, but we now have a long plod down the main river and out to the Catchpool. My Achilles is still a bother. In the heat the river crossings are refreshing.
On the Five Mile there are tens of people walking into the main river in the early evening. Young people. Young adults. Family groups. Mums and dads with kids. All going to stay in various huts for Friday night. How fine to see this enthusiasm for being in the hills.
We get to the car park by about 5.45. The car park is really full. About an 11-hour day. Yes, I would do the same trip, or north to south again next year.
Thanks to Catarina and Andrew.
Mike Wespel-Rose (leader and scribe), Catarina and Andrew Fisher (non-members).