This article was first published in Tararua Tramper May 2025, pp 10-11, with photos.
Motatapu Track
24-28 March 2025
The Motatapu Track, a stunningly beautiful part of Te Araroa, runs between Arrowtown and Lake Wānaka.
We started in Arrowtown and had a relatively gentle introduction to the track as we climbed over Big Hill and then followed the Arrow River to Mace Town, an old gold-mining settlement. As we set up camp, a family of two adults and four children, the youngest six years old, steamed past en route to Arrowtown – no stopping for them! Apparently, they had walked from Cape Reinga, an admirable achievement! Peter returned to Arrowtown the next day, as planned, owing to a previous leg injury.
Then followed three days of very strenuous climbing, each day going up to over 1,200m and then down again and then up again ... The most demanding day was from Roses Hut to Highland Creek Hut. The Te Araroa notes for this section say 'You’ve just climbed two major hills, and now there are two more'. Being fore- warned is not always terribly encouraging! But what kept us going was the incredible mountain scenery. We were above the bushline for much of the trip and, blessed with fine weather, had amazing views in all directions. It was inspiring to be among endless mountains and tussock and to feel the insignificance of three human beings in such an environment.
Before reaching Highland Creek Hut on day three, we had glimpses of Lake Wānaka, tucked behind a range of spurs.There were two other people at the hut. They had arrived early from Fern Burn Hut and were resting before the next day’s assault. Despite being on Te Araroa, none of the huts were full but the hut books showed that the vast majority of trampers between November and March were walking Te Araroa. Fern Burn Hut was the fullest and there we met a delightful group of four German students, in for a day walk, who each produced a tin of baked beans and a French loaf for their evening meal. They were happy to be gently mocked by the rest of the walkers.
Our last half day was easy going, sidling along an impressive gorge before slowly winding down to farmland and the road end. Peter walked in to meet us and then drove us back to Wānaka - all very civilised!
Lynne White (leader and scribe) Rachel Fry, Susan Guscott, Peter Morten