This article was published in Tararua Tramper in month 2025
Solo tramp Kapakapanui to Renata Hut
7 – 9 July
It was a very cold Monday, three degrees at the carpark. On went the pack and off I went. Fording the stream took away my breath and any warmth in my feet, making me move pretty fast up the hill trying to warm them up. But it didn't happen. Two-thirds of the way up a tree had fallen over the track, blocking the way. Out came my hatchet and 10 minutes later the pathway was clear. Back on with the pack and off at a trot. In a little while I was at Kapakapanui Hut with frost and frozen mud puddles all around. Into the hut, only to see the fire was out of order, so no fire for me.
Off with the wet boots and socks and on with dry socks, four layers of wool and a jacket, but the feet stubbornly stayed very cold. Hot drinks and something to eat followed by filling the water bottle with hot water, wrapping it in a towel and placing my feet on it. It got progressively colder, below zero, so I refreshed the drink bottle with hot water and put it into my sleeping bag. I cooked an early dinner, ate and cleaned up and got into my sleeping bag with my Kindle and had a good read. I started to warm up as night came.
After a great sleep that night, I got up, packed and had breakfast on a cold and clear day. Cleaned the hut, on with wet freezing socks, on with the pack and navigated around the ice and frost. The good thing about it being icy is you don't sink into mud. It didn't take long to get to the turnoff to Renata. Snow on Mt Taranaki and Ruapehu was great to see, and the views around the Tararua Range were great too.
I headed down what looked like the start of a creek, but it was the track. Into the leatherwood, into the goblin forest and onto the ridge that takes you to Maymore Junction. It was obvious someone had been improving the track and it was an easy walk, for the most part. Great views through the trees of the coast and Kāpiti Island. Within three hours from the turn off I walked into Maymore Junction and rushed off down the other side to Renata Hut.
Whoever did up the hut did a great job; it's now sunny, dry and double-glazed. I spent a few hours collecting and chopping up firewood, storing it and enjoying the rest of the day. After I got the fire going, the hut warmed up quickly. I read my Kindle for a few hours and had a great sleep.
I woke up at 5:45, got up in the dark, ate breaky, packed and cleaned the hut. With it still being dark, I torched back up to Maymore Junction and enjoyed sunrise as I went. Then back onto the ridge heading back to Kapakapanui. Along the way back I cleared a path through a treefall I had squeezed through the day before with the help of my trusty hatchet. Saw a few goats. I wasn't hanging around but was speeding back. I made the summit in four hours, had an early lunch, and enjoyed the views again. The Tararua Range is a beautiful place on a good day.
I was back at the car three hours later and for 30 minutes of this time a friendly fantail danced around me. Very enjoyable to have feathered company. Six-and-a-half hours from Renata Hut to the carpark. In the three days the only time I saw anyone was as I drained my boots of water and packed the car to go home. I'd not done the track to Renata before and highly recommend it. (Stu Hutson)